When a refrigerator runs constantly but fails to drop to safe storage temperatures (below 40°F), it usually indicates a breakdown in the defrost system or restricted airflow. The most common culprit is a failed defrost timer, bad thermostat, or an open defrost heater assembly. When these parts fail, heavy frost builds up directly over the evaporator coils behind the freezer back panel, completely blocking the cold air from being blown into the fresh food section by the evaporator fan. Our technicians remove these panels to test the individual defrost circuit elements and clear ice dams safely.

Water pooling at the base of your fridge or leaking from underneath the unit is typically caused by a clogged defrost drain tube. During the automated daily defrost cycle, melted frost flows down a small drain line into a pan beneath the refrigerator where it safely evaporates. If food debris, algae, or structural ice plugs this narrow tube, the water backs up, overflows the internal drain trough, and leaks into the bottom of the fresh food compartment or right out onto your floorboards. We utilize pressurized clearings to flush the lines and prevent expensive water damage.

If your ice maker stops cycling, it is usually due to a failing water inlet valve or an incorrect internal temperature. The secondary water valve behind the unit requires at least 20 psi of water pressure to push water into the mold; if the internal solenoids weaken or the line freezes, no water enters. Additionally, if your freezer temperature rises above 15°F due to weak cooling, the ice maker's built-in thermistor will mechanically prevent the harvest cycle from starting as a safety measure. We thoroughly test water pressure, clean supply lines, and inspect modular ice assemblies to restore production.